Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection for Saint Laurent, presented on June 6th in New York City, was a powerful statement. More than just a runway show, it was a carefully orchestrated experience, a dark and seductive ballet set to the pulsating soundtrack of Sebastian, perfectly encapsulating the brand's evolving aesthetic. The #YSLNY hashtag quickly became a symbol of the collection's impact, resonating far beyond the confines of the show itself. This article delves deep into the nuances of this significant collection, exploring its key elements and placing it within the broader context of Saint Laurent's ongoing evolution under Vaccarello’s creative direction.
The collection, a departure from some of the overtly glamorous presentations of previous seasons, embraced a raw, almost rebellious energy. While still undeniably luxurious, the clothes were imbued with a sense of gritty modernity, a stark contrast to the romanticized notions of Parisian chic often associated with the Yves Saint Laurent brand. This was not a collection designed for delicate tea parties; it was for those who command attention, who own the night.
The color palette was largely monochromatic, dominated by black, punctuated by occasional flashes of white and crimson. This stark contrast amplified the dramatic effect, highlighting the sharp tailoring and the sculptural silhouettes. Black leather, a staple of the Saint Laurent lexicon, was heavily featured, appearing in everything from sleek biker jackets to tailored trousers and even flowing dresses, blurring the lines between traditionally masculine and feminine aesthetics. This gender-bending approach is a recurring theme in Vaccarello's work, and it was particularly prominent in this collection.
The tailoring was impeccable, as expected from a house with such a rich history of sartorial excellence. However, Vaccarello injected a contemporary twist, often playing with proportions and structure. Blazers were elongated, trousers were slim-fitting and high-waisted, and the overall effect was one of lean, powerful elegance. The sharp shoulders and structured silhouettes created a commanding presence, emphasizing the confident and self-assured nature of the Saint Laurent man.
Beyond the sharp tailoring, the collection featured a range of other key pieces that captured the essence of Vaccarello's vision. The leather jackets, as mentioned, were a highlight, each crafted with meticulous detail and exuding an aura of effortless cool. The collection also included a selection of exquisitely crafted shirts, some featuring bold graphic prints that added a touch of rebelliousness to the otherwise sophisticated aesthetic. These prints, often abstract and graphic in nature, added a layer of complexity to the collection, hinting at a darker, more introspective side.
The accessories played a crucial role in completing the overall look. While specific details regarding the YSL bags new collection emerging from this show are difficult to pinpoint without revisiting the original show notes and press releases, it's clear that the accessories reflected the collection's overall tone. We can infer a focus on sleek, minimal designs, perhaps incorporating leather and metallic accents to complement the dark and edgy aesthetic. Similarly, the yves Saint Laurent boots likely showcased a similar blend of edgy sophistication, possibly featuring sharp pointed toes and chunky heels, echoing the overall silhouette of the collection. The YSL lookbook, if still available, would provide a detailed view of these elements.
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